Gun Battles on the Bay

(Publisher's Note - We just received several updates from our crew, and will publish them slightly out of sequence here. bc)

July 28, 2008

From the Mate:

The San Francisco Festival Of Sail is now history.

Four days of open ship and Gun Battles in 15 to 25 Kts of wind with boat speeds up to 11 Kts.

The last day we had a rig failure that snapped the Jib Boom. Crew response to the failure was excellent and we minimized damage to the ship as best we could. All aboard were safe.

We are now affecting repairs and hope to be back on schedule before the week is out.

(Thank you to Eliot Hudson for permission to use his gun battle photographs. bc)

© 2008 Eliot Hudson

© 2008 Eliot Hudson

© 2008 Eliot Hudson

SF Festival Begins

July 24, 2008

From Chari Wessel

MMSD Volunteer Crew

The long anticipated opening of the Tall Ship Festival finally arrived, bright and sunny, clear of fog, a perfect day for sailing.  We were assigned to follow "Eagle" in the parade of ships.  The Coast Guard escorted her out with a fireboat, two cutters and a helicopter.  Along the route other tall ships fell in behind us or joined along the edges, and by the time we all assembled under the Golden Gate Bridge, nearly every sailboat in San Francisco had also arrived.

The Coast Guard and harbor patrol boats were kept busy warning the sailboats to stay away from the tall ships.  No one can resist coming close to these beautiful vessels for a closer look and a photo op.  A deep draft cargo container even joined in the parade at the end, flying flags and spraying water from her fire hoses. We fired gun salutes along the route and heard gunfire from "Bounty" and "Lynx" as well.

From this crew member's perspective, the parade was a huge success.  We were rewarded with the evening off for showers, sightseeing and doing laundry.  Paul and Aimee rewarded our work with a lasagna dinner. 

Crew Comings and Goings

July 23, 2008

From Connie Allen

MMSD Crew

Bright sunrise greeted us this morning which seemed out of character for San Francisco. Yesterday I crossed over the Golden Gate after ducking under it the previous day. The perspective of the bridge disappearing in the fog was eerie but not as awe inspiring as sailing under the structure. We do that again today for the Tall Ship Parade.

We said good bye to our "Ship Zester", Kenny. And now are enjoying the efforts of Paul. John and Mike are gone but we gained Paul, Aimee, and Greg. We had a visit yesterday by maintenance crew members Richard and Katherine Pogue. They are joining the parade on the Nehemiah.

Good Times in SF

July 23, 2008

From Chari Wessel

MMSD Volunteer Crew

We've been busy enjoying San Francisco; apparently too busy to post in our blog.  We arrived on smooth seas Sunday morning and moored at Pier 40 for our first day here.  This was convenient to the showers and laundry, but also convenient to a large warehouse under renovation inhabited by seagulls who screamed day and night because the construction had disturbed their nestlings.  Tuesday morning we moved the ship to Pier 3, and soon "Lynx" moored up behind us.  

Once the Coast Guard was satisfied with our arrangements, the crew were released to enjoy the sights and sounds and flavors of the most European American city, the gateway to the golden west, San Francisco.  Our first cook Kenny has packed his bags and will be leaving on a jet plane.  Paul and Aimee Kay have arrived and immediately rousted out all the remaining groceries to take stock and go shopping.  Mike Hernon left.  David Fairbank arrived.  Each arrival and departure of different crew members changes the flavor of our group, like new spices added to an old family recipe.  The teasing and laughter around the evening game of Hearts in the main compartment sounds like family.

Underway - Half Moon Bay. San Fran!

July 21, 2008

 

From the Mate

Got underway from Half Moon Bay around 0400. Raised anchor and half of the mucky bottom. So much ooze on the anchor it covered the balance ring. Another good work out for the crew. Had the anchor up and sails set in 45 minutes.

We set a course for the short trip to San Francisco. We had NW winds at 10 Kts, seas were around three feet and the Temp was 55ºF.  Uneventful trip that had us along side Pier 40 in San Francisco at 1154.

 

The conditions for this last section of the voyage were as follows:

DOMINENT SWELL – NW @ 2 - 4 FT

WINDS – 10 and variable

TEMP - 55ºF

DISTANCE TRAVELED – 36 NM

 

 Connie Allen

MMSD Crew

San Francisco at last! Moored next to a working dock complete with jackhammers and other peace destroying equipment. Not a problem for me and my scopolamine. I plugged in some tunes and snoozed. Now waiting for teenage kayakers to vacate the showers so I can wash up.

Meanwhile we nudged the ship closer to shore. Cleaned the anchor. Chari and Ray went in search of ice. Watch is set.

Underway From Monterey

July 20, 2008

 

From the Mate

Got underway from Monterey last night at 1730. In 30 minutes we had cleared the Harbor, fired a one Gun salute, raised the Main/Fore/Staysail, made up the deck, stowed mooring lines and set the watch. Lots of dockside nervous energy has now been spent.

 

We set a course to hug the coast to try to stay in moderate conditions. We had NW winds at 10 Kts, seas were around three feet and the Temp was 56ºF (I never realized that Southern Californian's had so much thermal underwear). As we worked our way North the winds stayed light but the seas built with some sets 10+ feet. We arrived at Half Moon Bay and were at anchor at 1030.

 

After the noon meal we set about ships work -  bending on the Outer Jib and unlashing the Inner and making some minor repairs.

 

The conditions for this last section of the voyage were as follows:

DOMINENT SWELL – NW @ 6 – 8 FT

WINDS – 10 to 15

TEMP - 55ºF

DISTANCE TRAVELED – 69 NM

 

 Connie Allen

MMSD Crew

The mate's not kidding about the thermals. I wore 2 pair of woolen socks under my rubber boots; neck to wrist and ankle long underwear; 2 woolen sweaters (one – cashmere!); crew t-shirt and lined Carthard crew jacket; watch cap; and then foul weather gear – pants to my armpits & jacket to my knees with a hood. I was warm enough despite repeated dousing over the bow. Thinking about a version of twelve days of Christmas that involves clothing.

One of the joys of night watch in high seas is the sea life that washes aboard. The waters swirling about our feet contained cute little phosphorescent creatures. They winked like fireflies on a hot summer night. Only difference was the altitude. Oh and the temperature.

Anchors Aweigh

19 July 2008

From Steve Weigelt

MMSD Crew

George Sutherland started it! Last November during the annual sail of Star of India, George showed up with his forearms sporting the latest in spiffy tattoo-ology. These masterpieces were painstakingly crafted using the finest Sharpie and bore a striking resemblance to the anchors adorning his hero Popeye's forearms!

George's artwork had so impressed me that I was green with envy and I wanted more than ever to have an anchor tattoo of my own! Of course, it would never be the equal to the original, but I had to try.

Fisherman's Warf in Monterey is adjacent to the original Customs House used to access taxes on goods arriving in Monterey. On one end of the structure there is a large bronze anchor with a placard saying its origin was unknown, but the anchor had been retrieved from the bay in 1944. This anchor appears to have been originally fitted with a wooden stock that had long since decayed away. On seeing this anchor I was reminded of George's tats and the lust began again!

I sought the help of Chari Wessel to render a sketch of this and any other noteworthy anchor to be found in Monterey. Chari was up to the task and in a short time she had located three potential candidates and provided drawings of each. This led to a field trip to view the candidates. My favorite turned out to be located at the USCG Station Monterey.

Armed with photos and sketches I was off to find a tattoo studio in Monterey. My fingers walked thru the yellow pages and located two within walking distance of Fisherman's Warf (go figure).

Ross Grajewski is a talented young artist working at Creative Visions on Lighthouse Ave. in Monterey. Ross, a former Marine sniper (1998-2002) was very helpful in providing suggestions as to how to accomplish my vision (I decided not to argue with him!). Thankfully,

Ross came thru with a beautiful anchor tattoo I will be proud to show. Thank you, George! Now all I have to do is convince my wife, Laura, that this is her 31st anniversary gift from me (I'm at sea and she is having dinner with friends). Wish me luck!

Mike says "I went all the way to San Francisco on the Californian and all I got was this crummy tattoo!

Californian Reaches San Francisco

From Peter Durdaller

MMSD Ships' Operations:

21 July 2008

Californian has reached San Francisco.  

1100 or so passing beneath the Golden Gate Bridge.  

Let the Games begin!!  Festival of Sail San Francisco. 

See http://www.festivalofsail.org/

Thanks,

Peter

Bumpy Transit From Monterey

July 20, 2008. 1030 hours

From Peter Durdaller, MMSD Ships' Operations

 

After a "bumpy" transit from Monterey, Californian is now anchored at Pillar Point.  She will sit here through the night before raising the anchor for transit into San Francisco Bay, passing under the Golden Gate Bridge in the vicinity of 0730 hours on 21 August 2008.

Web Link to Pillar Point

Pillar Point Harbor is the only protected harbor between San Francisco and Santa Cruz. 

The sandy cove where the harbor is located was once used as a whaling station by Portuguese sailors. 

The harbor's breakwaters were completed in 1961 to provide additional protection from the waves.

Follow this link to learn more about our anchorage:

http://montereybay.noaa.gov/visitor/access/pillar.html

Future Crew Report from Connie Allen

Connie Allen

MMSD Crew

Andrew came to visit the boat three different days.

He stayed for hours and chatted up the crew.

He's been on the LYNX and is excited about the Bounty's impending visit.

Peter Sharp...

Pete Sharp, MMSD Volunteer Crew, sailing Californian.

Ann Morrison

 

Ann Morrison aboard Californian.

Updates From Our Crew, Monterey, CA

From

First Mate

Bob Nelson 

July 19, 2008, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

Making final preps for the last leg from Monterey to San Francisco. Sense that the crew is ready to move on after a prolonged stop in Monterey. We will leave around 1730 tonight after the local winds lay down. We will stop at Half Moon Bay in rout and anchor out over Sunday night and then proceed to San Francisco early Monday AM.

Ann Morrison

MMSD Volunteer Crew

July 19, 2008, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

Ann, here.  Hi, Daddy!!

The Monterey marina area is very handy and picturesque.  There’s a Trader Joe’s here.  Nice. 

Pete and I and John Gottlieb are bunking in the forecastle.  I chose a bunk between the opened forepeak hatch and the hatch we travel in and out of.  It’s nice and airy and has plenty of daylight when the sun is starting to light up the sky.  Also, there’s a lot of headroom.  However, upon realizing that that bunk will provide an ‘E’ ride when we’re out at sea, I decided to change bunks for another that is athwart ships and more aft.  That way, the ‘E’ ticket ride part of the rocking we’d likely get will be side-to-side for me and not end-for-end. 

Sleep has come easily and deeply at night.  We eat a lot, walk around town some, and work a little on the boat.  We’re also getting Hearts lessons from Captain Chuck.  He teaches card games by setting good examples.  He took full-moon twice in the game last night.  (That means that all of us playing with him got 26 points and he got none.  This is a game where points are not sought after, ya know.)  Yes, Chuck is a great teacher.  We also has many examples of what NOT to do in the game.  I’m one of those.  A couple of nights ago I had the honor of having the most points.  Come to think of it, that was one of the games Chuck was watching when he decided to join in.  And, as I remember, Uncle Ray (Sweet Baby Ray as his moniker stands now) provided some good ‘don’t do this’ examples last night.  It sure is a fun game!

The otters are adorable.  They roll around a lot in the water.  Last night I heard some geese honking.  This morning there were four swimming in the water near us.  The Monterey Cypress trees are beautiful.

Yesterday Pete and I walked along a walkway to the Monterey Aquarium.  We’ve already been in the Aquarium, so all we did was eat.  We also stopped in and I got some puzzles for the ship.  I got the horse-shoes, as spring, and the twisted nails.  Kevin knows how to do them all.  I even learned one of them.  Now the Californian has them in her stores. 

Well, I’ll stop here for now; gotta go get some goodies from Trader Joes.   We leave this afternoon around 1730.  Should be fun!!  Rahoo!

Love, Ann

18 July Reports, Connie and John

Connie Allen

MMSD Crew

July 18, 2008, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

 

Our ship computer hard drive crashed. It devoured the detailed account from RPS who joined with others here in Monterey. Hope he is willing to rewrite some of it. Mr. Nelson has offered his laptop to fill the hardware gap.

Washdown this morning showed off the crew's deck scraping to great advantage. We hope to look our best when we get to San Francisco. Tourists here in Monterey talk about visiting again next week end and especially joining us for gun battles on the bay. The crew is ready to cast off mooring lines and move north even if it means anchoring for a night or two. I'm anticipating hearing tales from the ships joining us from the north who have been seeing heavy weather and high seas.

 

John Gottlieb

MMSD Volunteer Crew

July 18, 2008, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

Greetings from the ship in Monterey. There of us drove up from San Diego a couple of days ago to join the crew, Pete Sharp, Ann Morrison and myself.  We had a very pleasant trip in Ann's car which would eventually be driven back to San Diego by two departing crew mates, Paul Dempster and Susan Baird.

 

It was a great feeling seeing the masts of the Californian rising above all of the others from across the marina. After my anticipating our trip from Monterey to San Francisco for months, the moment had finally arrived. It was hard to believe I am actually going to transit from Monterey to San Francisco, sailing under the Golden Gate Bridge and into San Francisco Bay. What an experience this will be!

 

The crew told us of all the calm winds and flat seas that they had encountered on their way up from Santa Barbara with conditions so good that the ship arrived in Monterey a day early.  Now, we are given the news that there are strong winds and high seas gathering off the coast and it might be wise to sit them out for a few days. We are probably waiting until the evening of the 19th.  After remaining in port since Sunday, everybody is raring to go.

 

In the mean time, I must say that Monterey is certainly the city to be in to sit out sea conditions.  The weather in Monterey is currently quite nice – cool in the evenings and mornings and warming up beautifully at mid-day.  There are so many tourist attractions to visit including the world famous Aquarium, Cannery Row, various museums, and movie theaters and I have been doing them all as I get the chance off watch. The ship has been open to the public for the past three days and we have had hundreds of locals and out of town tourists visiting her. Everyone has been blown away by our awesome vessel. We are all very proud to be a part of showing her to the public. 

Mike and Ray

Mike "Hurley" Hernon 

July 17, 2008, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

MJH July 17, 2008

This morning we awoke to the sound of CRACK, CRACK, CRACK!  On the port side, under the floating dock, an otter is working on it's morning meal. Again, CRACK, CRACK, CRACK. But then it's morning morsel comes to life ."Hi you have reached the cell phone of Susan Baird, I can't answer the phone right now but if you leave a message I'll get back to you as soon as possible. Oh if you are looking for Jimmy Buffet he will return to the ship at 1600"

 

Ray Stewart

MMSD Crew, Second Mate 

July 17, 2008, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

Hello all.  Having a super time in Monterey!  We have open ship everyday and the natives are friendly.  They are interested in the ship and have lots of questions. It is rewarding to have the chance to tell them about our ship and museum.

Chari's update from Monterey

Chari Wessel

MMSD Volunteer Crew

July 16, 2008, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

CLW:  Today I had time to walk about half of the History Trail.  I started at the first brick house in Californian, next to the Whaling Station with its front patio made of whale vertebrae.  Across the street the Monterey Garden Society maintains a beautiful herb garden with espaliered apple trees, fragrant pink roses and a Moses rock bubbling water.  Across another street is a building labeled as the first theater in town, but the well-stocked bar inside proves its actual function.  

I reached the Sorreno House in time to take the tour with a guide.  It was the home of the first customs officer, and before the trees matured he had a view of the customs house and harbor below.  I learned that under Mexican law, the customs officer was paid a percentage of the taxes he collected, and it was up to him to set the tax rate.  Contemporary accounts complain bitterly about tax rates of 100 to 150%; but the hides bought here for $1 each would sell for $30 apiece on the East Coast.  The Sorreno House was occupied until the 1970s, so there are many layers of improvements on the original 4-foot thick adobe structure, and eclectic furnishings and art arranged in spare, austere charm.

I continued down the block past many more antique homes and businesses and finally reached my goal—the house where William Tecumseh Sherman lived while he was posted to Monterey during the Mexican War.  It's a whitewashed adobe house with a shake roof, bare plank floors inside and Spartan furnishings.  Behind the house is a climbing rose arbor and a wishing well.  I saw many bigger and richer homes but this one was my favorite.

After my history walk, I bought a sketch book at Walgreen's and made pencil sketches of all the anchors I could find:  one in a small park on Pacific, one in front of the Customs House, one in front of the Maritime Museum and one in front of the Coast Guard station.  According to one of the history guides, there is one more anchor on the seaside walk.  I'll find that one tomorrow.

Connie's Pics of Nav Class

Connie Allen

MMSD Crew

Among the things the crew does on the trip is advance their mariner skills. Here First Mate Bob Nelson instructs the crew in the finer points of navigation.

All pictures are from 7/17/08, my camera. Nav class was taught by Bob Nelson for the crew. It is the first installment. 12:30 - 2 PM. Attended by Kevin, Scott, Ann, Pete, Connie, Chari, Jude, and Patrick.

Dockside, Monterey Pict

Connie Allen

MMSD Crew

Steady stream of visitors today though not as many as Tuesday and Wednesday. The local papers advertised those days only. We are still welcoming the public for 6 hours/day.

Update from Kevin

Kevin Carothers

MMSD Volunteer Crew

July 16, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

Now where was I… oh yeah!  COLD!!!!  So night watch on the Californian is one of the most amazing things I have ever experienced.  During the day from deck while on watch you can see for maybe ten miles on a clear day but at night without any lights on the horizon it seems like there is a curtain around the ship and all you can see or hear is the water running down the side.  The nav lights just barely catch the water as it foams but aside from that everything is black. 

 

During the night watches on the way to Santa Barbara there was nothing to see but on our way to Monterey it was a little more interesting.  The night watch in that leg was just as we were rounding the point so we got to watch the lighthouse move along the horizon, and just as we were getting ready to make our northward turn (I was on bow watch) we were surrounded by a pod of dolphins who were rushing about in the ships bow wave.  I've never seen dolphins at night so it kind of surprised me when I heard a rushing sound around the bow and saw a bunch of trails of white water around the ship. 

 

The next morning we saw a BUNCH of whales, more dolphins, seals, sea otters, and sea lions.  We have also been seeing these weird birds that float around and take off by running on the water for a while until they can get enough velocity to get airborne. 

 

These past few days have been a little slow so today I decided to go shake things up.  I went for a walk around the marina and talked to the Harbor Master.  He told me that there was going to be a regatta later today and I might be able to find a spot on one of the boats.  Unfortunately it corresponded with the anchor watch I was supposed to stand but Connie was kind enough to stand my watch for me and let me go have way to much fun when she could have been going out on the town with "the gang". 

 

Thanks Connie!  

 

I got down to the dock where the sailboats where getting ready and asked around to see if any needed some more crew.  The only boat that was open was a Moar 22 with a patchy record and only one first to her name in her yearlong career.  Anyway I joined the crew of two and helped them get the boat in the water.  We tacked out of the marina with light wind and made our way out into the harbor where the wind was a lot stronger. 

 

We got into position for the race about three minutes late and all the other boats were ahead of us but soon we began to gain on them.  Before we hit the first marker we had past all the other boats in our class!  As we were rounding the marker though we had trouble getting the spinnaker up and the swell was kicking up a bit more.  We had a good run down to the second marker and were well ahead of all the other boats in the class but just as we passed the last marker and made for the finish the jib halyard dropped broke and the jib dropped down into the water.  The boat slowed to a crawl and the other boats were catching up with us but some quick action from the bowman and me got a secondary halyard rigged and the jib set again. 

 

We managed to push our way forward and passed through the finish in 1^st place!  When we got back the skipper and the bowman sent me up in a bosuns chair to assess the situation with the jib halyard.  It turns out that the sheave in the mast for the halyard had popped part way out and was jamming the halyard up there which somehow broke the shackle and released the jib.

Connie Allen @ Fisherman's Wharf

Connie Allen

MMSD Crew

July 16, 2008, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

Fourth day in port and a bit of cabin fever developing. We seem less agitated after the briefing this morning and knowing the current game plan even though it extends our port visit till Saturday. Sight seeing and exploring keep some of us on an even temperament. Others rely on the local pub and the endless supply of jokes delivered by the owner, Tony. The movie theater also has us for patrons.  The deck scraping has paid off restoring our ship's natural beauty. We are completing the wardrobe of lee clothes to keep our southbound passengers snug in the upper bunks. And fresh paint on the deck edges will keep us aware of our surroundings on dark seas. We can find enough work to fill the time if we try.

Fisherman’s Wharf, Monterey

Chari Wessel

MMSD Volunteer Crew

July 14, 2008, Location Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey

The crew mustered early for breakfast so that we could unmoor the ship and get her to the fuel dock before the other boat traffic was active.  The fueling hoses barely reached our fill-pipes, and on the way back to our moorings, Capt. McGohey had to maneuver around a mooring purse-seiner, a sailboat and two boatloads of whale watchers.  Despite the traffic, with his usual deftness he avoided all obstacles, spun the ship on a dime in mid-channel and tucked her back into her moorings. 

 

The crew was employed for an hour scraping tar off the deck planks, and then we rigged for "open ship" and welcomed many curious visitors aboard.  Those crew who were not standing watch were free to visit the museums and Aquarium and shops.  I wrote a few postcards, visited the Pacific House history museum and enjoyed a mocha before reporting for my watch duty.  In the evening, Scott B. and I went to the local art theater to see "Mongol," a Russian film about Genghis Khan.

Californian Reaches Monterey

From

First Mate

Bob Nelson 

Docked at Monterey Harbor at 0715; Berthed at Fisherman’s Wharf. Progress up the coast was so good we had to slow the boat down to make a sunrise approach to Monterey. The conditions for this last section of the voyage were as follows:

 

DOMINENT SWELL – NW @ 3 ft

WINDS - <10>

TEMP - 65° F

DISTANCE TRAVELED  – 99 NM

 

 

From the Crew, Connie Allen: July 13^th, moored in Monterey. Seems like the Pacific was popping valium. The wind wasn’t. Gently rolling seas from Santa Barbara to Monterey. We anticipated excessive yawing and experienced excessive yawning. The most exciting part of our 8PM – midnight watch was the birds. We couldn’t see the birds. But every once in a while, we would hear a crackling sound – like tidying up the wrapping paper on Christmas morning. At daybreak I saw what we had heard. The ducks run on the water and flap wings to get air born.

Chari Wessel

MMSD Volunteer Crew

When a ship as big and beautiful as ours pulls into a harbor, members of the public congregates immediately.  If today is any indication of local interest, we will have lots of traffic for “open ship” tomorrow.  Walked through the local Maritime Museum and learned about the sardine fishery, the abalone fishery and the Hotel Del Monte.  Also walked through the original Customs House.  C.W. Lawrence (the 1847 Revenue Cutter which Californian is a replica of) would have been here to help the customs officers in this very building.

Californian To Visit Monterey

Here's information on Californian's visit to Monterey -

In Monterey  from July 14 - 17; Open for tours July 15 and 16, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

http://www.monterey.org/harbor/tallships/index.html#californian

Bert Creighton
MMSD Volunteer Crew

Californian Heading North Along Central CA Coast

From

First Mate

Bob Nelson 

 

Continued making our way north up the central California coast. 

Conditions still very light. 

The conditions at 1200 were as follows: 

DOMINENT SWELL – NW @ 3 ft

WINDS - <>

TEMP - 68° F

DISTANCE TRAVELED BY 1200 – 122 NM

 

Chari Wessel

MMSD Volunteer Crew

Yesterday we closed our ship to visitors around 4 p.m. and prepared to leave Santa Barbara.  As we cleared our mooring lines a few of our new friends gathered on the dock to wish us bon voyage.  The sail up the coast was uneventful—smooth blue swells, southerly winds.  Oil platforms march along the coast like brightly-lit space stations.

We saw Pt Conception lighthouse from many miles away, and at midnight we passed it.  For more than a year, the crew have been hearing nightmarish stories about the winds and weather that can be encountered off this point, so it was a pleasant surprise and a testimony to the expertise of our captain and officers that brought us around so smoothly.  One of the losses at Pt Conception involved a young crewman named Danielle; she was lost overboard from Californian during a trip when the vessel was under ownership by Nautical Heritage Society.

At midnight, Mr. Nelson and a few assembled crew members held a memorial for Danielle.  Mr. Nelson said, "Danielle, you are a sailor we never knew but we share with you a love for this ship.  May your dreams be realized in Fiddler's Green, where the music never stops and the dancers never tire.  We remember you."  We threw Hershey's chocolate into the waves for Danielle.

 

By dawn we were cruising smoothly through a heavy marine layer, safely around Pt. Conception and Pt. Arguello, alongside San Luis Obispo.  The sea here is filled with birds, sea lions, sea otters and passing whales, all feeding in the kelp beds below.  Visibility is limited to a few hundred yards around us, and it's surreal to sail through a mist of uniform gray, gray water merging with gray fog, no visible horizon. Our fog horn sounds every two minutes.  There is no other sound.

By noon the fog burned off and we can see the steep cliffs of the coast between Moro Bay and Big Sur.  The ship has been making such good time that the captain has throttled back our speed; otherwise we would be arriving in Monterey in the middle of the night.  After dreading the potential rough weather around the two points, it's almost anticlimactic to be here so quickly and easily.  Captain McGohey reminds us that we should "enjoy it while we can."  There is still a potential for rough weather ahead.